BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE
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BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE

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WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Genres : Littérature générale > Biographie / Témoignage littéraire > Autobiographie / Mémoires / Journal intime

  • ISBN

    9781472151414

  • Beschikbaarheid

    uitverkocht

  • lengte

    20 cm

  • breedte

    13 cm

  • dikte

    3.2 cm

  • Bestandsgrootte

    403 g

  • Verdeler

    Olf

  • Formaat

    Poche

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