Barbarian Days
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Anglais Barbarian Days

À propos

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

  • EAN

    9781472151407

  • Disponibilité

    Disponible

  • Nombre de pages

    464 Pages

  • Distributeur

    ePagine

  • Diffuseur

    Olf

  • Entrepôt

    OLF

  • Support principal

    ebook (ePub)

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